Over the past couple of years, I’ve made a bit of a hobby out of collecting and using old lenses on my Fujifilm X mirrorless cameras. (I’ve discussed some of them in a previous blog post.) More specifically, I’ve been using M42 lenses. M42 is a lens mounting standard that was used by many camera manufacturers from 1949 to the 1980’s. There is a wide range of lenses available for this mount and they can be purchased quite cheaply now. Of course there are more expensive versions from brands like Zeiss, but there are plenty of good, cheap lenses from brands like Helios, Vivitar and my personal favorite, Asahi Pentax.
Other lens mounts like Canon, Nikon, and even Leica can be adapted your mirrorless camera, but they are usually much more expensive than M42. I’ll focus on M42 in this blog post.
Reasons to Use M42
- Many M42 lenses are relatively cheap! They are typically a fraction of the price of equivalent modern lenses. This allows you to play with various lenses and focal lengths without breaking the bank.
- The M42 standard easily adapted to many camera mounts. I talk about Fujifilm cameras in this blog post, but you can buy M42 mount adapters for most if not all major camera manufacturers. That means these lenses can be useful even if you switch camera systems. I’ve personally got M42 adapters for my Canon full frame bodies, but I think these lenses really shine on mirrorless cameras, especially with focus peaking.
- Great build and mechanical quality. All the lenses I’ve had experience with are built like a tank! No wonder they’ve lasted this long.
- Overall, it’s just lots of fun to use these lenses. They are sharp, well-built, and have their own character.
Reasons Not to Use M42
- Manual focus only. M42 lenses have no AF. However, the lack of autofocus is not such a big deal on mirrorless cameras like the Fuji X series, as they have focus peaking and other focusing aids built in.
- Old lens design and tech. Vintage lenses are not as clinically sharp as modern lenses. Also, aberrations and flare are not handled quite as well due to older lens coating technology. However, this can also be a benefit if you want a classic/vintage look.
- Adapters make the lens more bulky. Especially with smaller mirrorless cameras, adapters must be a certain size to in order to compensate for the distance between the lens and the sensor. Unfortunately, this adds a bit of bulk to the combo. SLR adapters are smaller since the distance is more similar to the original M42 camera design.

Lens without adapter vs. Lens with adapter. Noticeable size difference.

M42 adapter and Helios 58mm on my Canon 6D. Note the much smaller size of the adapter.
Mount Adapters
Like lenses, the available adapters vary in quality and price. I recommend skipping the generic adapters and going for one like the KF concept. The cheapest generic adapters do the job, but the build quality is a bit lower and might need a bit of adjustment to line up the top of the lens. There are also specialized adapters that enhance functionality, such as tilt and tilt-shift adapters from Kipon, which I would love to try in the future. There is also the Lens Turbo II from Zhongyi, which removes the crop factor and makes the lens effectively faster via an additional lens element. For this blog post, I will focus on the regular adapters that simply connect the M42 lens to the camera, therefore keeping the 1.5 crop factor.

Left: Generic M42-Fuji X adapter with hex key wrench to adjust lens rotation. Right: K&F Concept M42-Fuji X adapter with better build quality (and looks).
Lenses
Asahi Pentax SMC Takumar 28mm f/3.5
Pros: small, sharp, good contrast, great build quality, 40-ish mm equivalent close to “perfect normal”, short infinity focus with nice focusing ring feel
Cons: flare prone (as many M42 lenses are), not a low light lens, (but should be okay given the high ISO performance of Fuji bodies), some chromatic aberrations, it is mostly an outdoor daytime lens
Typical price: $45 USD and up
Sample images:
Helios 44-2 58mm f/2.0
Pros: famous swirly bokeh, built like a Russian tank, fairly fast at f/2.0, stepless aperture ring (some Helios variants may not have this), great 85-ish portrait focal length on crop sensor
Cons: lots of flare and aberrations (flare can be a good thing), a bit soft at 2.0
Typical price: $30 USD and up
Sample images:
Asahi Pentax (SMC) Takumar 135mm f/3.5
Pros: small, built well, 200mm equivalent, especially love the metal hood, nice long focus throw for precise focusing, looks awesome (like a little cannon ;)), nice long reach in a small package
Cons: soft wide open, not particularly fast lens, but will do well outdoors
Typical price: $30 USD and up
Sample images:
Asahi Pentax SMC/ Tele-Takumar 400mm f/5.6

Asahi Pentax SMC Takumar 400mm f/5.6 as purchased from eBay. Price: $159 USD shipped.
Pros: long reach (600mm equivalent on Fuji!), built in metal lens hood is great, sharp especially when stopped down a bit
Cons: 8 meters (26.2 ft) minimum focus distance (sounds really far, but it’s really quite fine for outdoor landscape and travel use), relatively slow 5.6 minimum aperture, again this is mainly an outdoor lens, can be a bit challenging to nail focus, not that easy to find for sale
You will need a tripod to keep this lens stable for the most part.
Typical price: $140 USD and up
Sample images:
Overall, all of these lenses produce great images, have excellent build quality, and have relatively low price.
Tips For Choosing Your Lenses
- Decide what focal length you need and want
- Check lens reviews and sample images online. Pentax Forums is a great resource for Takumar lenses.
- Be on the lookout for good deals on eBay or Amazon.
- Check the seller’s description and images thoroughly and make sure the lens is in good condition. The good sellers will typically provide all the information you need to make a good selection.
- Things to avoid are fungus, too many scratches on the lens elements, and poor condition of the lens barrel/mechanics.
- Look for included accessories. I personally like the ones that have caps, hoods, and cases, and I’m willing to pay a little bit more for those.

Ready for action! Total cost for 4 lenses and 4 adapters: about $360 USD shipped.
Final Thoughts
I hope you enjoyed this little peek into the world of M42. Again, this information doesn’t just apply for Fujifilm cameras, but all major camera manufacturers that have M42 adapters available. The rabbit hole goes deep with vintage lenses, and I barely scratched the surface here. I definitely recommend trying out vintage lenses for your mirrorless camera. If you’re worried about autofocus, I can tell you that it does get easier as you practice. These days, I’ve been nailing focus pretty easily with the vintage lenses. All in all it’s really fun and useful, especially if you’ve been dying to try a certain focal length, but aren’t ready to pull the trigger on an equivalent current model lens.
UPDATE: I’ve also tested some Olympus OM Lenses on my Fuji system. Check it out!
Video
I put together a video where I talk about these lenses then go out and shoot with them. Please check it out!
31 Comments
Great post! I love the idea of slowing down with manual lenses.
I use SOOC jpg’s for various reasons and am wondering if there are generally any issues with distortion on these older lenses that you mention? Or, is it possible to set the X-series cameras software to take advantage of the distortion controls offered for the M-mount adapter when using non-Fuji adapters and non-Leica lenses?
I’m interested in grabbing a manual lens for my X-T20 for landscapes. Do you have any favorites in the wide/ultra-wide focal area? The Samyang 12mm you have previously mentioned sounds very interesting but I was wondering if you knew of others that would be a bit cheaper?
Thx!
Thanks for reading! With the way I use the lenses, I have yet to encounter any distortion that has bothered me. It might be there, but it hasn’t been an issue for me so far. I have no experience with the X software so I can’t speak to that. Generally, distortion has bothered me maybe less than 1% of the time. For that, I went into Photoshop to manually correct it. I find that correcting horizons and vertical lines is enough most of the time, which Lightroom is very much capable of.
The widest I’ve seen for old and relatively cheap lenses is around 24mm, which isn’t very wide on crop. The older Sigma and Nikon ultra wides I’ve seen on eBay are already in the hundreds of dollars, so might as well go for the Samyang IMO. The Samyang remains my favorite landscape lens, and I think it’s such a great value. Plus it goes on sale on Amazon from time to time, which is something to look out for.
Any recommendation for macro lens? Looking at the Fujinon 60mm macro, but would rather find something cheaper.
Thanks for reading, J. James! I’m not sure about cheaper dedicated macro lenses, but extension tubes are a good option as well. Extension tubes can turn any lens into a macro lens. The ones from Fuji have good reviews. If you are using vintage M42 lenses, you can might be able to use extension tubes like these with the M42 to Fuji adapter. I haven’t had experience with these though and I’m not sure about the vignetting issues that might come with them.
Thanks Roy! Excellent work.
Roy, I found your blog last week and I´ve read (i guess) all of your posts.. I`m amazed by your photos and in love with your gear!
I started in photography last year, but I´ve been shooting digital as well as film practically everyday (a borrowed Canon 40d and Yashica Electro GSN).
Next year I´ll be travelling various countries for several months (starting in New Zealand and planning to visit as many Asian countries as I can, taking street shots primary) and I was thinking on getting a mirrorless camera for the trip instead of buying my own DSLR, in order to have a smaller pro equipment. I like particularly the x pro series, and I´ve seen some x-pro 1 that are not so expensive (I`m from Argentina, and $1.800 USD for a x-pro2 is a LOT of money…) Would you recommend me this camera for what I`m planning to do?
Wow, thank you Manuel! For street shots, I still quite enjoy my X-E1, which is similar to the X-Pro 1 and even cheaper. It should serve you well for street and travel shots. If you are on a budget, perhaps an X-Pro 1 or X-E1 and a 23mm f/2 WR or 35mm f/2 WR would be a good place to start. I’m about to post my thoughts on the XF 35mm f/2.0, so look out for that blog post. Thanks for reading and let me know what you get!
can you use non proprietary flash for Fuji. Can you use 2nd curtain sync with manual lenses with Fuji cameras
Magandang araw
I am contemplating on upgrading to apsc mirror less. I
am interested with focus peaking. Can it be viewed through the evf or it is only through the lcd. Another is can you use non proprietary flash with Fuji bodies and have you tried 2nd curtain sync with manual lenses + Fuji. This is disabled on my current body when using a manual lens
Thanks
Hello Erick. Focus peaking is visible through both the EVF and the LCD.
As for 3rd pastry flashes, the Godox TT350F and Nissin i40 flashes should be able to fully support all flash features with the Fuji bodies (check the documentation though if your particular body is supported). I’ve personally never tried manual lenses with flash. Does your flash support 2nd curtain sync with a Fuji lens?
Thanks Roy
I am currently using a Pentax DSLR and Olympus PEN Lite and personally prefer to use legacy lenses than modern lenses. Unfortunately the two models are relatively old and do not have focus peaking system. My eyes are also old and I’m thinking that I might benefit from focus peaking offered in newer models. I use generic full manual flash for my cameras. Pentax uses TTL system that is lens dependent and automatically disables 2nd curtain sync if the camera doesn’t recognize the attached lens. This is not the case with the Olympus. It fires the flash on 2nd curtain sync even with adapted lenses. As I have mentioned , I am saving for an APSC mirrorless body and considering Fuji but have no idea how Fuji system works specially with legacy lenses. I will be very appreciative if someday you can find time to give us ( followers who might be as interested ) some feedback/insight on this. Thanks again
According to my research, rear curtain sync should work fine with adapted lenses, as long as you’re using a Fuji or 3rd party flash that is compatible with Fuji TTL.
As for the focus peaking, I believe it would definitely help people with not so great eyesight, both through the viewfinder and the LCD. For a first body, I’d recommend the X-T10 or X-T20. Both are small SLR-style bodies with focus peaking. They also have the split prism style focus assist if you prefer that.
Hi,
After watchedyour video I decided to buy Vintage lenses for my new Fuji X-T1. But I have a Takumar 28 F3.5 (42M) and SMC 35 F3.5 (Pentax K mount). I was wondering if I can buy an adapter for : 42M to Pentax K and then mounted to the Pentax K to Fuji X mount. it will be 42M to PK to Fuji X. Do you think that could work?
Hello Roy,
After your video I bought a M42 takumar 28 F3.5 and smc pentax 35 f 3.5. Also an M42 to Pentax k adapter ; another adapter for pentax k to fuji x.
My queation is. Is it posible to built an adapter : M42 to Pentax K to Fuji x?
The lens or camera will allow it. And also what about the IQ ?
Please your support.
BTW,great youtube videos. Straight to the point.
Thank you, Manuel! I’m glad to help!
I’m not sure about building adapters. But if you are referring to stacking adapters, it might mess with the lens to sensor distance and cause some issues. M42 to Fuji X adapters are widely available and pretty inexpensive, so my recommendation would be to get dedicated adapters for each lens type. I personally have an adapter for each lens so I don’t have to unscrew them when changing lenses.
Hi Roy I hope you won’t mind if I would answer this question to help and give insight to fellow photo enthusiasts. I am familiar with m42 and k mount lenses as I am currently in Pentax system. My answer would be yes. Once you attach the m42 -k adapter, your takumar lens basically becomes a k mount lens so it should work with your available k -x adapter. The distance register will not be affected even if you stack the two adapters as long as your m42 adapter is similar to the proprietary adapter made by Pentax. The process however is combersome so the idea of providing dedicated adapter for each mount would be simpler. IQ will definitely be unaffected.
Awesome! Thank you so much for your input, Erick! Learned something new today!
I noticed you didn’t mention the cheapest one – Industar 50-2, just got mine on e-bay for $9, cannot wait to take it out today… Love your site — btw. It is very… inspiring. Thank you.
Thank you, Tapani! Sounds like an interesting lens. I’ll be sure to check it out! 🙂
Great blog Roy!
I have an X-E1 and quite a few Fujinon lenses, which is what I mostly shoot with.
The X-E1 only has white peaking which sometimes makes it tricky to focus, especially with fast lenses like the 50mm f/1.2.
I’m thinking of getting a more modern body and was wondering which one would be a marked improvement to focusing with manual lenses compared to the X-E1.
I think that the X-E2, X-E2S, X-E3, X-T1 & X-T2 all have the same viewfinder as the X-E1, but with better focus peaking.
The X-T3 has a higher resolution screen. I wonder how much better this makes focusing compared to the others.
What would you recommend? I shoot mainly stills, with a bit of video.
Thanks for any input.
Hi Mike! Thank you for reading. I have the X-T1 and X-T2 and they have a better viewfinder than the X-E1 in terms of larger magnification and layout (smaller fonts and other elements makes it feel finer and sleeker overall). The T series also have more peaking colors. I have no first hand experience with the E2 and E3, so I can’t really speak about it. I’d have to say the 0.77x viewfinder magnification on the T series makes the biggest difference in manual focusing experience. Hope this helps. Thanks again!
Hi,
Are there wide angle vintage lenses that would be suitable on the XT3? By that I mean at least 24mm. Or is the Samyang/Rokinon pretty much the best option?
The widest vintage M42 lens I’ve come across is the Takumar 20mm f/4.5. There are also lots of options for Nikon and Canon mounts that you can adapt. However, the prices of all of these approach that of the Samyang/Rokinon. I’d definitely recommend the Samyang for it’s modern design, awesome performance, and bang for the buck. Thanks for reading!
Hi Roy,
Greetings from another Roy! I found you first on youtube when I was thinking about trying vintage lenses on my X-T20.
Very interesting clip and informative. I’ve selected and bought my first set, all prime Super Takumars, 28mm f3.5, 50mm
f1.4 and 135mm f3.5. Looking forward to using these vintage manual lenses soon. I’ve also chosen lens adapters made
by K&F for my X-T20 and also my Olympus Pen-F. I like outdoor photography, especially landscapes, and as I progress
with my mirrorless system I’ll be reading more of your informative articles. I look up to creative photographers to guide
me as I develop and hone my own photography but I admire photographers, such as yourself, who are able to make a
living out of it and still find time to share their work and experience for the benefit of those following in their footsteps.
Thanks again kabayan and stay safe!
Thank you for your kind words, Roy! I’m glad my articles and videos could be helpful. It’s not always easy to make content, but comments like yours inspire me to do more! Stay safe and all the best!
Hi Roy,
Great article for the introduction of M42 lenses. I’ve got a specific question regarding adapter choice. As I’ve already got a Fringer EF-FX adapter already, I’m wondering, instead of buying an M42-FX adapter, is it OK to just get an M42-EF adapter and to use it together with Fringer on my Fuji? I’m asking because I see that you also use the M42-EF adapter. Do you have any experience to share in this area? Thanks in advance.
Hi Frank! I haven’t tried it myself, but I’m guessing it will be fine. I assume the manufacturers have measured the lens-to-sensor distances properly, so putting the two adapters together should be okay. Thanks for reading!
Hello Roy, Is the Pentax SMC Takumar 28mm F/3.5 Radioactive? What about the other lenses are they radioactive?
And any suggestions for vintage lenses that aren’t?
Thank you!
Hi Max. As far as I know, it is not a radioactive lens. Nor are any of the other ones that I mentioned in this post. There is an interesting page that lists radioactive lenses as well as ones that have been tested not to be radioactive. Check that out here: https://camerapedia.fandom.com/wiki/Radioactive_lenses
Hope this helps. Thanks for reading!
Loved this. I shoot a wide variety of legacy lenses on my Fuji XT-1 and my XE-2.. I have quite a few Pentax primes as well as Tomika designs from the likes of Alpa etc. all in 42mm mounts. By the way what is a 3rd pastry flash? lol
Doug
Thanks for reading, Douglas! Thanks for pointing out that hilarious typo as well! I had no idea until now. Haha!